For beginner balcony gardeners!

Although the springs in recent years have started later and have also been cooler, if we want to eat tomatoes grown on the terrace of our city-centre apartment this year or use our own herbs in cooking, now is the time to start preparing. Here are a few tips to help you get started.

We often hear city dwellers say that last summer they watched enviously as their friend grew fantastic chillies, tomatoes and who knows what else on their inner-city courtyard balcony, balcony or rooftop terrace, and cursed themselves for once again missing out on something truly urban and delicious.

Then they promised themselves that next year (that is, this year) they would also join the “gardens in every apartment building” movement.

This is for them: it is time to start preparing. The first plants to work on are peppers and chillies – preferably within the next few days, as the seeds should ideally be planted by mid-February. It is also worth hurrying with tomatoes, but we still have another week or two for those. And if we want fresh herbs, we can plant them whenever we feel like it, as they grow quickly and can grow throughout the year. If we want to sow something else, such as aubergines or edible ornamental pumpkins, then we are certainly not beginners and already know when it is the right time for each plant. And these plants would not really fit on a balcony anyway. If we want to sow something else, such as aubergines or edible ornamental pumpkins, then we are certainly not beginners and already know when it is the right time for each plant. And these plants would not really fit on a balcony anyway.

Good seeds, poor soil for seedlings

First, we need to grow seedlings for our plants, which means planting seeds. It is not worth saving money on the seeds, but there is no need to spend a lot on the soil either; ordinary potting soil is perfectly suitable for our purposes. The temperature should be constant: the soil the seedlings are growing in should remain at least 18 degrees Celsius at all times. This is why growing seedlings between two window panes may not be the best idea, thinking they will get plenty of light there. They may get enough light, but at the same time they could freeze if a serious cold spell arrives in March. When it comes to seeds, however, the quality really does matter, and fortunately there is only one important consideration when choosing a source: buy only from professional seed suppliers. With these suppliers, you can be sure that the seeds are not simply collected from previously grown plants, but are genetically pure seeds that have been stored and transported properly. This means you are much less likely to encounter unpleasant surprises when the plant grows – if it grows – and produces a crop. Seeds saved from your friend's fantastic tomatoes last year or your neighbour's chillies are a gamble and are not worth the effort. When selecting a variety, however, you can rely on the descriptions provided by seed suppliers to find a plant that suits your taste, expectations and growing conditions.

Tomatoes in every quantity

When we start thinking about balcony gardening, it is definitely worth investing time, energy and money in plants that will reward us for the care we give them. We are not professionals, so there is no point in taking on unnecessary challenges. That leaves tomatoes and herbs (basil, thyme, marjoram, rosemary, etc.). These are relatively undemanding, and they are sure to produce a crop, and quite abundantly at that. There is absolutely no point in discouraging ourselves with plants that only cause frustration.

What to avoid

There are plants that could theoretically be grown on a balcony, but either their seeds have a very poor germination rate, they require a great deal of experience, or even if they germinate, they will never produce fruit. So these plants will only frustrate city dwellers who are just starting out as hobby gardeners. More exotic fruits such as pineapple and mango can be started from cuttings or seeds, and you can find a thousand videos online showing how to root the top of a pineapple, but it is very difficult to keep these plants growing until they actually produce fruit. (And truly tropical plants simply will not produce fruit no matter what you do.) It is quite possible that someone will spend 2–3–5 years experimenting before the first tiny little fruit appears on their terrace. Another plant group that is very fashionable these days and should be approached with caution is the “super-hot” chilli varieties (such as Monster Naga and Jolokia). These are not quite as extreme as pineapples, but at this point better soil and better nutrients can already make a difference, seedlings need additional lighting, and they need to be strengthened with a fan – so amateur growing may no longer be enough. The same applies to strawberries: their germination rate is very poor (only 5–10% of the seeds), so they are not worth the trouble for beginners. Just go with tomatoes – after all, it is difficult enough to find good-quality ones in shops and at markets. Fresh herbs are always useful if you regularly cook.

Pots

First, we will need a sour cream cup. Put moist soil into it and sprinkle the seeds on top (3–10 seeds in a 200 ml cup: 3 for peppers and tomatoes, while for herbs you can use up to ten). After the second set of true leaves appears, transplant the seedlings into smaller pots of around 12 cm in diameter. Then, when the 4th–5th set of true leaves appears, move them into larger, final pots (17–21 cm) or planter boxes. The larger the pot, the larger the plant will grow and the more fruit it will produce. Two popular alternative solutions are a cleaned-out emulsion paint bucket and a bag: cut a hole in the top of the plastic bag containing potting soil, place the plant into it, make several holes in the bottom of the bag, and you are done.

Too much love can be fatal

Almost every beginner gardener makes the mistake of “over-caring” for their plants, which can end up killing them. They receive too much water, too much plant food, etc. The younger the plant, the more careful you need to be, because it is much easier to destroy it with too much water or fertiliser. The ideal situation is for the soil to be moist but never waterlogged, and to water only when the very top layer of soil has started to dry slightly. Once our tomato plant has grown large and healthy, things are not quite so delicate; a little overwatering is less likely to cause a problem, but it is still worth being careful.

Use plant food sparingly

First of all, while our plants have not fully developed, we should not even think about fertilising them, and even afterwards we should do so cautiously. Fertilising or applying manure should only begin after the second transplant – once the plant has fully developed and become bushy. (These products are generally made from natural ingredients, so we are not talking about any kind of chemical treatment.) Use strictly the amount specified in the product instructions, because it is very easy to overdo it, and this is not good for plants. We should also make sure to use plant food specifically intended for each type of plant, as their nitrogen requirements differ significantly. Fortunately, herbs are undemanding and are the least fond of regular feeding, so plants such as marjoram and thyme can safely be left out.